Picasso on the wall, Versace on the table and your next cocktail already paid for: on a Mediterranean cruise aboard Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ Seven Seas Splendor, we explore Malta and the Italian coast — and discover that true luxury sometimes means simply staying on board.

“Isn’t this wonderful?” Sarah asks, raising her glass. “Let’s order another champagne. It won’t appear on our bill.”

We are sitting in Chartreuse, Seven Seas Splendor’s French speciality restaurant, somewhere between an exquisitely presented main course and the realisation that we could get used to this life rather quickly. Sarah, an American psychoanalyst and devoted Regent fan, has already booked her next cruise, of course. Julie, sitting opposite us, lives in Sydney and is cruising for the first time.

She listens closely as Sarah shares a few insights.

“For a woman travelling alone, there’s nothing more enjoyable than a cruise,” Sarah says. She also lets Julie in on her personal Regent tip: solo travellers who would like some company should ask to join a larger table in the restaurants. “It’s such an easy way to meet the nicest people.”

Seven Seas Splendor: Luxury Cruising with a Refined Touch

Countless ships sail the Mediterranean in summer. Only a few belong to that small category entitled to call itself ultra-luxury. Fewer still have original Picassos and Mirós on the walls, silver cutlery on the tables and Versace dinnerware. On Seven Seas Splendor, these are everyday surroundings. The ship accommodates up to 750 guests in 375 suites, each with its own balcony. More than 4,300 square metres of Italian marble were used on board. There are 216 crystal chandeliers in the restaurants, lounges and other public spaces, another 119 in the suites and 218 illuminating the corridors. Figures like these might sound a little excessive. Until you step aboard and see it all for yourself.

A Five-Million-Dollar Art Collection

Regent is particularly proud of Seven Seas Splendor’s art collection, reportedly worth around US$5 million. Approximately 300 works by more than 200 artists were assembled over almost two years and placed throughout the suites, restaurants and public spaces. You could easily spend a sea day wandering around the ship looking at art. In Prime 7, the steakhouse, you will encounter Pablo Picasso’s lithograph Le Taureau Noir. Joan Miró is represented, too. A few decks higher, things become even more exclusive.

 

The Regent Suite: Sleeping Beside a Picasso

High above the bridge sits the undisputed star of Seven Seas Splendor’s accommodation: the Regent Suite.

Including its vast veranda, it covers more than 400 square metres. It has two bedrooms, two and a half bathrooms, a private spa with a sauna and steam room, and spectacular views over the bow. Picasso’s Notre Dame de Vie hangs in the master bedroom.

Nearby stands a bed that deserves a mention of its own. Handmade especially for the suite by Swedish luxury bedmaker Hästens, the Vividus is valued at around US$200,000. A bed for the price of a house — in some places, at least.

As if that were not enough, guests also receive a bottle of Rémy Martin Louis XIII. This legendary cognac is among the world’s most prestigious spirits. Its standard 700 ml bottle comes in a handcrafted crystal decanter and costs several thousand euros, depending on the retailer and edition. Unlimited spa treatments are included for Regent Suite guests, along with a personal butler and a private car with a chauffeur in every port. And despite being far from a bargain, the suite is usually booked a year in advance.

What Is Included with Regent Seven Seas Cruises?

For most guests, the real luxury of Seven Seas Splendor lies elsewhere: there is rarely any need to think about what something costs. Wines, cocktails and a wide selection of other drinks are included in the fare, as are the speciality restaurants. Gratuities, Wi-Fi and valet laundry service also form part of Regent’s all-inclusive offering. Above all, an extensive selection of shore excursions is included. Whether you choose French cuisine in Chartreuse, Asian flavours in Pacific Rim or a steak in Prime 7, there is no additional dining charge. Reservations are still advisable, preferably before your cruise.

A Sea Day aboard Seven Seas Splendor

After embarking in Athens, we have a day at sea. Thankfully, because it gives us time to get to know our floating home. It is the details that hold your attention: the spacious interiors, the art, the service that is attentive without being intrusive. The restaurants have a welcome sense of calm that cannot always be taken for granted on larger cruise ships. Naturally, food plays a leading role. On Splendor, you soon discover that luxury can be served beautifully on a plate. The ship’s Executive Chef is Daniel Ledo Trujillo. The Spaniard, who has worked in numerous five-star hotels around the world, leads a kitchen team of 130. What is the guests’ favourite dish? “That’s difficult to say, but Beef Wellington is often requested,” he tells us.

 

Malta and the Story of Faith, Hope and Charity

With Malta waiting somewhere beyond the horizon, it is almost possible to forget that this voyage needs ports at all. Almost. An early-morning arrival in Valletta is far too beautiful to miss. The immense fortifications glow golden in the sunshine, deep-blue water sparkles below them, and domes and church towers rise into the sky. Simply arriving is an experience.

And we have done our homework, thanks to Bridget Buxton, the New Zealand ancient historian and underwater archaeologist who is lecturing on board during our cruise. Buxton combines scholarship with a spirit of adventure. She has taken part in diving expeditions to the wreck of the Titanic and tells history in a way that makes you want to head straight out and explore. Before our arrival in Malta, she introduces us to Faith, Hope and Charity, the three Gloster Gladiator aircraft that became legends in 1940.

When the Italian air force attacked Malta during the Second World War, these outdated biplanes were, for a time, the island’s entire operational fighter defence. Three small aircraft facing overwhelming odds. Even their names sound as though someone invented them for a Hollywood film. Sadly, only Faith’s fuselage survives. After a short boat tour around Malta’s spectacular harbour, our plan is clear: we set off to pay our respects to Faith.

 

When Mount Etna Glows at Night

Late that evening, Splendor sails past Sicily. The day could easily be over. Perhaps one more drink, then bed. But suddenly people are gathering on deck, looking into the darkness. Mount Etna is active again; we had already heard it on the news. The volcano is little more than a silhouette against the night sky, but high above us, lava glows red in the darkness. For a few minutes, everyone falls quiet. No Picasso, crystal chandelier or US$200,000 bed can compete with a volcano breathing fire into a warm Mediterranean night.

Naples: Pompeii or Sorrento?

The next morning brings Naples, and with it a dilemma: what should you see when there is far too much to choose from? Many guests head to Pompeii. Excavations and new research continue to reveal fascinating details of life in the city buried by the eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79. Bridget Buxton had given an impressive lecture on this, too. We, however, head towards Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast. Lemon trees, steep coastal cliffs, villas overlooking the sea, delicious ice cream and those legendary places where film stars and other famous visitors once holidayed, with the paparazzi never far behind.

 

Rome in 36-Degree Heat? We Make a Different Choice

The following morning, Seven Seas Splendor is in Civitavecchia. Rome is within reach. The Colosseum. St Peter’s Basilica. The Roman Forum. The Trevi Fountain. The Pantheon. Piazza Navona. We could spend eight hours walking through one of the world’s most fascinating cities. But the thermometer reads 36°C in the shade. We make a decision that requires a little justification, at least to ourselves. We are not going to Rome. We are staying aboard Splendor.

Within an hour, every trace of guilt has disappeared. With most guests on their way to the Eternal City, we suddenly have the ship almost to ourselves. The corridors are quiet. The outdoor decks are peaceful. Our day begins with a massage in Serene Spa. Afterwards, we slip into the infinity pool at the stern. Gentle music. Warm water. The sea stretching out behind us. No queue outside the Colosseum. No pavement radiating heat in 36 degrees. Just water, sky and the wonderful feeling that, for once, we do not have to go anywhere.

Later that afternoon, Sarah and Julie appear. They settle into loungers and order cocktails. We raise our glasses together as the Mediterranean sparkles in the sunshine beyond Seven Seas Splendor’s stern. Perhaps this is the true luxury of life at sea: the freedom to be within reach of Rome on a hot summer’s day — and decide, without the slightest guilt, that you are already exactly where you want to be.

By Susanne Müller
Photography: Susanne Müller and Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Seven Seas Splendor at a Glance

• Cruise line: Regent Seven Seas Cruises
• Guests: Up to 750
• Suites: 375, all with private balconies
• Accommodation highlight: The Regent Suite, covering more than 400 square metres including its veranda
• Art collection: Approximately 300 works by more than 200 artists, valued at around US$5 million
• Dining: Several restaurants, with speciality dining included
• Included: A wide selection of shore excursions, drinks, speciality dining, gratuities, Wi-Fi and valet laundry service
• Design details: More than 4,300 square metres of Italian marble and over 500 chandeliers
• Further information: www.rssc.com or your travel agent